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)Fun Finder X-139 "Boondock Style" (axle-flipped and extra insulation) Toyota Tacoma Off-Road (semi-beefy tires and components)"A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single list."
I have been torturing myself, trying to develop some sort of a decision tree to see if I should convert to lithium batteries. I have searched the archive for a "lithium for dummies" thread and have come up empty. (If I'm wrong, I am sure someone will let me know!So that is what I am humbly asking for -- is there a really easy to understand site or article that explains or compares lithium batteries to lead/acid batteries for RV use and then guides the shopper through the steps needed to come to a conclusion?Or maybe this thread can serve as a resource for those of us (like me) who do not have technical backgrounds?In any event, here are my particular questions:Aside from the obvious cost difference (which may or may not be a deal killer), my three biggest concerns are weight, capacity, and cold weather charging.Weight: I am in my eighth decade (!) and am having trouble lifting a group 31 lead acid battery without hurting my back. It looks like lithium is a clear winner on that issue.Capacity: I'm satisfied with the capacity of a group 31 -- it's nominally at 110 amp/hours, which means I can get about 55 amp/hours from the battery without risk of damage to the battery. Am I correct in concluding that if I were to get a lithium battery with 100 amp/hour capacity, I could use almost all of that capacity?Cold weather: What does one do about charging a lithium battery when camping in sub-freezing weather? We really like snow camping -- is that a deal killer? We are almost never subjected to temps below ten degrees. And the daytime usually warms up to around 30 or so.Thanks in advance for your help and advice -- and on behalf of all of us dummies, thanks for keeping it as simple as you can!
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A fully charged lithium-ion battery can sit for a year or more and still retain adequate capacity, without damaging the battery. As such, any electrical device that has no current flowing when OFF should never need a tender. However, some equipment may have a significant draw even when OFF, to maintain clocks, computers, navigation systems, pumps etc. Thus, ionic recommends using a ionic lithium-ion charger sold at Lithiumhub.
Ionic&#;s lithium-ion battery chargers have been designed to work together with the internal cell balancing board and BMS in the &#;Deep Cycle&#; batteries that have special algorithms to prevent over-charge and maximize life of the battery. We have a very simply approach where all the cell balancing maintenance is done automatically when the charger is attached. NO expensive, complicated charger/tender is needed.
LithiumHub recommends using Ionic chargers with the Ionic batteries. However, lead-acid chargers for Ionic (LiFePO4) batteries can work. Lead-acid batteries charge at 2.30V to 2.45V per cell whereas Ionic (LiFePO4) batteries require 3.60V per cell. Your battery would potentially be undercharged, so you will not get use of the full capacity of the (LiFePO4) battery, nor will balancing be triggered in the (LiFePO4) battery pack, both of which are not desired. Furthermore, the floating charge of the lead-acid charger is not expected by the battery and can cause problems.
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