Oil stones and diamond vs vanadium carbides

A brief idea of those two threads with two posts from each:
First thread -

nozh said:

We have discussion on Russian forum and this came up:
"Diamond sharpening rip off carbides from steel and sharpen just steel matrix, as a result at the begining edge is same as for simple carbon steel and after it wear out carbide teeth came out and start cutting - like postponed secondry sharpness."

What do you think?

Especially I am asking Pamela - what do you see in your microscope?

Thought agains this is that:
1. If Carbides are riped off then edge will have holes with size equal or bigger then carbides - fine edge will be hard to form.
2. Diamonds embeded in leather unlikely rip out Carbides embeded in steel.

Thanks, Vassili.

For more Carbide anvil for synthetic diamondinformation, please contact us. We will provide professional answers.

Click to expand...

STR said:

Hmm. Seems like the matrix would be the first to be removed since it is softer and that this would expose more fresh carbides instead of the other way around. It will be interesting to see but there are so many stories of successful sharpening and reprofiling with diamond pads and ceramic that it is hard to believe they do what you suggest.

I would hope that studies and research would have been done before marketing to determine the extent of this. But, you never know.

Click to expand...

Second thread -

knarfeng said:


So you are saying that perhaps the toothy edges are left by using a sharpening medium that is softer than the carbides? That seems reasonable to me, although I don't have your user experience with those steels.

Following that hypothesis, this chart would imply that the only way not to get a toothy edge on either S30V or D2 would be to sharpen with diamond. Both S30V and D2 have enough Vanadium in their makeup to form significant amounts of Vanadium Carbide and diamond is the only commonly found sharpening medium that is harder than Vanadium Carbide.

Would this help:So you are saying that perhaps the toothy edges are left by using a sharpening medium that is softer than the carbides? That seems reasonable to me, although I don't have your user experience with those steels.Following that hypothesis, this chart would imply that the only way not to get a toothy edge on either S30V or D2 would be to sharpen with diamond. Both S30V and D2 have enough Vanadium in their makeup to form significant amounts of Vanadium Carbide and diamond is the only commonly found sharpening medium that is harder than Vanadium Carbide.

Click to expand...

orthogonal1 said:

That is along the lines I'm thinking, i.e. that S30V and such are best sharpened with diamond abrasives. Diamond stones should cut the tougher carbides versus the carbides eroding the the stones (say common ceramic stones).

The theory isn't mine, I just keep it mind. It seemed reasonable when I first read it and it would appear to explain some of the sharpening behavior some people (me included) have experienced. Then there is always the PFM factor of heat treatment added in to the mix.

The theory could partially explain why some people observe "inferior" steels performing better than the "superior" steels. Simply using the right media to sharpen the steel could change the resultant perception of which is the better steel.

Just trying to increase my understanding of the theory and see whether it has real-world merit.

Click to expand...

Mostly based on seeing the chart, and knarfeng's/orthogonal1's assertions, i've been curious about whether or not vanadium carbides are too hard for anything short of diamond to sharpen the carbides as effectively as the diamond. I know people do fine with oil stones, sandpaper etc. but these posts got me thinking about how people mentioned s30v, s90v, or other high vanadium steels losing the sharp edge fast but retaining a working edge longer than something with less or no vanadium. Could this be due to the edge carbides being stripped rather than sharpened, and the matrix wears down to the lower carbides which hold the working edge longer?

Am i cheating myself by not using diamond? would a lower (maybe 600) grit diamond, then moving to finer grit oil/water stones give good results assuming what i've posted is the case? Or should diamond be used across the board? Would the physical properties of say, a 3 micron diamond sharpener allow for enough of a refined edge to compete with the more traditional stones of similar grit/mesh? I'm of course no metalurgist, but the posts in the second thread about diamond sharpening the carbides makes more sense to me than the first thread.

Thought i would try to start a conversation on this and see if anyone with the resources has put any time into this since the time of those threads. Thanks to anyone who has taken the time to read this blinding wall of text.

I haven't seen any recent discussions on this going through pages on end for the past week. The only two that stood out to me were: Diamond sharpening and Crbides from VG-10 vs. S30V from .A brief idea of those two threads with two posts from each:First thread -Second thread -Mostly based on seeing the chart, and knarfeng's/orthogonal1's assertions, i've been curious about whether or not vanadium carbides are too hard for anything short of diamond to sharpen the carbides as effectively as the diamond. I know people do fine with oil stones, sandpaper etc. but these posts got me thinking about how people mentioned s30v, s90v, or other high vanadium steels losing the sharp edge fast but retaining a working edge longer than something with less or no vanadium. Could this be due to the edge carbides being stripped rather than sharpened, and the matrix wears down to the lower carbides which hold the working edge longer?Am i cheating myself by not using diamond? would a lower (maybe 600) grit diamond, then moving to finer grit oil/water stones give good results assuming what i've posted is the case? Or should diamond be used across the board? Would the physical properties of say, a 3 micron diamond sharpener allow for enough of a refined edge to compete with the more traditional stones of similar grit/mesh? I'm of course no metalurgist, but the posts in the second thread about diamond sharpening the carbides makes more sense to me than the first thread.Thought i would try to start a conversation on this and see if anyone with the resources has put any time into this since the time of those threads. Thanks to anyone who has taken the time to read this blinding wall of text.

Tuesday, November 08, Barak levy

Dental burs comparison: Diamond vs Carbide burs

As virtually every dentist knows, burs are essential dental instruments. Positioned on a dental drill, the bur's ultra-fast rotation cuts through teeth enamel, allowing dentists to remove plaque and prepare teeth for a wide range of procedures, from cavity fillings to crown fillings and more.

Dental burs are used alongside countless other dental tools in the dentistry toolkit for a wide number of applications, and therefore are quite diverse in material, shape and diameter. In this article, we will focus on two main bur types: dental diamond burs and dental carbide burs. Our goal is to define the difference between the two bur types, and understand each type's unique advantages.  

What are Diamond Burs?

Diamond burs are made from diamond grit. They are very powerful and precise, and can grind through hard tissue with great precision. They are the preferred choice of dentists worldwide for grinding through natural teeth enamel &#; as well as ceramics such as porcelain &#; as preparation for crown fittings. The precision of diamond burs ensures that the tooth's inner pulp tissue is not damaged in any way.

The diamond bur grind is rather coarse, and usually leaves a "rough" end result. Often, this coarseness is not an important factor. Like sandpaper, Dental diamond burs come in different diamond grit surface densities. Dentists that want to achieve smoother results will use burs with high surface densities.

What are Carbide Burs?

Carbide burs are made from a super-hard, extremely resistant chemical compound called tungsten carbide (WC). It is much harder than steel, which makes it an excellent material for drilling and cutting. As a result, tungsten carbide is used extensively in various applications, from machining and surgeries to dentistry.

The use of carbide burs in dentistry has become very common. This isn't very surprising, primarily because tungsten carbide burs are great tools for preparing teeth for cavity fillings or removing fillings. They cut swiftly through the teeth, and remove elements that may interfere with the filling, including plaque. They are also very helpful in removing and replacing fillings. Because they cut rather than grind, carbide burs create smoother surface environments than diamond burs.

 

If you are looking for more details, kindly visit Tungsten Carbide Flat Stock.

Carbide and Diamond Burs: Main Differences

• Precision: When it comes to precision, the diamond bur grind trumps carbide bur cutting. With diamond burs, there is also a lesser chance of impacting the tooth's inner pulp area.

• Durability: Both diamond and WC are extremely strong materials. Yet carbide burs are more durable and tend to have a longer lifecycle. They are also more resistant to heat.

• Surface: If you're looking to create a smooth tooth surface, then you should work with carbide burs. In comparison, the diamond bur grind creates a coarse and rugged environment.

• Zirconia cutting burs: Cutting and removing zirconia crowns can be rather difficult. With their high-speed grind, diamond burs are better equipped for the job than carbide burs. The same can be said for cutting ceramic crowns.

When Should Each Bur Be Used?

The answers to this question are highly subjective. Every dentist has his or her personal preferences and list of best practices. That said, a majority of experienced dentists can agree that diamond burs are better than carbide burs in certain scenarios, and vice versa.

Diamond burs in dentistry are commonly considered as excellent tools for precision cutting through enamel and ceramics, especially in certain procedures that concern crown removal or fitting. Generally speaking, when a dental procedure requires ultra-precision cutting, then diamond burs are a more popular choice than carbide burs.

Carbide burs have their advantages, as well. They are much more effective for cavity and filling procedures, and are known to be more durable in the long-run. Many dentists also prefer them because they leave a smooth, clean finish.

So, should you use diamond burs or carbide burs? That depends on the work that you perform in your clinic, as well as your level of professional expertise. It may be a good idea to familiarize yourself personally with both bur types to understand what best works for you. Conferring with other dentists and learning about their preferences is also a good idea.  

The Bottom Line

To sum up, carbide and diamond burs are very different. They each have very distinct advantages. As a result, many dentist clinics alternate between carbide and diamond burs &#; depending on the specific scenario at hand. It's always a good idea to have many high-quality toolkits available. If you are interested to learn more about type of burs in dentistry, click to read our guide.

At Eagle Dental, we sell both Carbide burs and Diamond burs. We pride ourselves on premium-level products with very high value-for-money. If there is something we can say with conviction, it is that we do not recommend compromising on product quality. If you're looking to buy burs for your clinic, you've come to the right place.

Not sure exactly what you need? Send us a message, and we will respond ASAP. We'll be happy to recommend burs that will benefit both you and your patients.

For more information, please visit tungsten carbide teeth inserts.